Cutting and pasting problems, sorry.

NEI “DD” Moulds; supposedly it stands for Dimensionally Detailed or a somewhat crude reference involving a dog.

If I understand correctly these moulds have a couple of very small groove diameter bands on an otherwise bore rider design. Apparently these bands are cut in a separate operation because you may take them or leave them. I may have this all confused in my mind.

I'm still on a quest for a plain base mould for my .218 Bee. They list a DD mould that I think might work at low velocity in my slow twist barrel. I'm wondering should I get the "DD" bands or not.

Al Miller wrote of D-D bullets in handloader, December 1994.
I don’t remember what D-D stands for but as originally intended the D-D bullets have two bands totaling one caliber bearing length and a two caliber long nose slightly under bore size with a “centering ring” that is slightly larger than bore diameter. This was later expanded to allow any suitable bullet mold to have the D-D band added. I have thought about buying another Lyman 311291 mold and having the centering ring added.
I don’t remember what twist your Bee has but my Marlin Bee will shoot the NEI No. 1 bullets – a 40-grain gas check bullet pretty well if kept below 1,750 fps. The longer Lyman bullets seem to work a little better between 1,550 and 1,800 fps. I intend to add some of the cast bullet Bee data in my Beartooth Book chapter.
The Lyman 225415 is a hard bullet to beat shot as cast, hand lubed and seated long enough to force itself into the throat. I do not crimp these and load them single shot in the Marlin.

Accuracy is about like a .22 lr. at 25 and 50 yards.

I have a Lyman 225438 and it does fairly well in my Ruger with the 1-14 twist. I shoot them without the gas checks which causes a mess and extra work getting the lube off either the gas check shank or the case if I don't get it off before hand.

I am determined to have a plain base .22 caliber mould. I don't like gas checks and will not use them. Color me eccentric and hardheaded.

The DD is to specify the bore ride nose to have the larger diameter miny band on the nose. Since a true BR nose is meant to really fit the bore diameter and even engage slightly, and there are many size variations of a given bore diameter, the larger miny band is used to correct this. The nose has to be supported or your likely to get some canting and poor accuracy. This small band is meant to be engraved upon chambering. As it's real narrow, it doesn't cause alot of resistance. It's a cheap fix for a generic design.