any one try this???
http://www.gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm
I tried undoing one side of the spring and oh boy did it lighten up the trigger!

This is an old cowboy action shooters trick and works quite well on the Ruger Single action's.

Here is the next step to the Poor man's trigger job. Can be done if you have some basic dis/re assembly knowledge. Lightened mine to right about 3-3.5 lbs. A little bend goes a long way.


http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

Thanks for the info, mine is light enough for me with one end of the spring disconnected.

Shooting mine, a lot, made the trigger just right on the SBH. Just a warning. Don't do anything you can't go back on. It will lighten up. That's my experience.

I like super light but safe triggers and have done so many Rugers I do it in my sleep. My single actions vary from 19 to 24 oz pulls.
The article mentioned that you do not want to reduce the mainspring and this is true but also because it can give poor ignition and accuracy, not only the slow hammer fall. I would change my mainspring once a year when shooting IHMSA. Now I put increased power springs from Wolf in them.
I put the hammer on my grinder and remove the right amount, then stone them. You also want to just break the sharp edge with a ceramic stone.
Then I bend the trigger spring for what I want in that gun.
I am telling you this because there is a danger involved in doing this. The trigger can kick foreward a little at the sear break. This drops the transfer bar and it can fall off the bottom of the fireing pin or nick it and cause a hangfire let alone what it can do with accuracy.
Ruger in it's wisdom has made the transfer bars too short and most cover less then half the pin at full cock. LOOK at yours and do not make the pull too light unless the bar covers at least 3/4 of the pin.
It is easy to fix by making the trigger spring stronger.
I solved the problem by making several new transfer bars by hand for a few of my guns. I use tool steel, harden and temper them. (It is a nasty job.)
I discussed this with Brownell's and understand they offer an after market transfer bar now but I do NOT know if they are longer because I haven't bought one. If interested, I would call them and ask.
Fitting one involves getting the length right so when the trigger is held full back and the hammer slowly lowered, the top of the transfer bar goes UNDER the step on the hammer. If this is not done, fast shooting can make the bar block the hammer.
Here is a picture of my .44 and the original bar.

This trigger job idea came out about a month after the new model hit the streets. It was a common fix for IHMSA shooters in the late 1970's. bfrshooter is right about the transfer bar being too short at times - one quick fix if this happens to the single six is to use a transfer bar from the centerfire blackhawk - they're larger.