With new rifle brass, when is the best time to trim?

If the new brass is under the max length is their a need to trim, or do you just wait until it is over length after reloading and shooting and then bring them down to Trim-To length? I realize different case length equals different friction on the bullet, but how important is it to have all cases the same length?

Also, I have been lubing my rifle brass, sans shoulder, putting a small amount inside the neck with a Q-tip, then resizing and priming my brass without cleaning afterward, then loading powder and bullet. This seemed OK until I started loading 22-250 and ball powder, which gets messy. I got some Imperial Sizing Wax and the Imperial powder for the necks, which should eliminate the messy powder loading. Now, should i tumble the resized brass before loading, or load and wipe down afterward?

bentrod

To the trim issue, you can trim your new unfired brass after it's been sized, both to even out the case mouths and to get them all to a standard length. Uniform length is more important if you plan to crimp, but is still a good thing even if you don't crimp. Otherwise, wait until after the first firing and second resizing.

Dry lube is best in the neck if you don't tumble or clean after sizing. If you do, it doesn't matter. With Imperial Case lube, I like to do a "towel tumble" by sprinkling a little alcohol on an old towel, then dump on the brass. Roll the towel and hold each end while tipping it back and forth a dozen times or so. Allow the brass to dry and proceed with priming, etc.

i'd say that rocky is pretty much spot on. the only thing i'd add is that it depends on the batch of brass. if it's all over the map then you ought to trim it for the sake of starting with uniform length. just the same i agree, it makes more sense to wait until after the first firing, let the brass form to the chamber and then go from there. depending on how you load you may not have to trim very often but if you shoot hot loads and resize excessively then you'll have to trim more. it's hard to make a "blanket" statement because there are many variables... the brass itself, your techniques, etc. i recently decided to try some laupua brass in my 6.5x55 and was impressed at the uniformity in length, but i haven't checked it since fire forming (AI chamber). i don't expect any surprises but just the same i'll check to make sure that the case mouths are square. there are a lot of different theories, you just have to find what works for you.

Most of my brass is purchased in bulk, 100-250 at a pass, and after sizing to iron out any case mouth dents, rarely requires any trimming. I do chamfer the case mouth to make seating flat base bullets easier.

Most of the time, it takes a couple passes at the sizing die to make trimming necessary, but I typically trim after each cycle for rifle cartridges, just because. Handgun cases rarely require trimming after the first pass.

But it's always worth checking, as brass over max is the source of many problems.

Years ago I went to the Lee trimmer/case length gauges. These are basically fool proof and tell you exactly when your cases need trimmed. I just did 745 220 Swift cases. Just chuck the cutter/guage into a half inch drill press and use the table as a stop. You don't even have to turn off the press to do a pile of cases in a short time and with the pilot extending thru the primer hole it's near impossible to mess up a case. My Wilson went down the road years ago. If Lee don't have one for your caliber they will make you one up for 20 bucks and three correct length cases.

I have found that the Lee trimmers trim to max trim length, not back to minimum trim. That is OK but you will be trimming every firing and you won't have uniform lenght until you get all of them to max length. If you crimp, you want to trim your new brass to the trim length and then you will have equal lengths. I don't think that made sense but that is what I said. :)

I got it all figure out now, thanks all.:D

bentrod

I went the route Bob described with the Lee Trimmers, I really like these things. You simply can't screw it up and chucking up the lock stud makes real short work out of trimming.

Chief - I've knocked a few thousandths off the end of a Lee Trimmer to get to where I wanted to be. They are sufficiently inexpensive that this is no big deal.

I have found that the Lee trimmers trim to max trim length, not back to minimum trim.

I've used Lee's for years, but the only one I've had trouble with trimmed too short. Lee replaced no charge.

Guess the answer is they need to be checked. One thing is for sure, it's easier to trim them shorter, than longer;)