Hi all,

I'm new to using real black powder for a fire-lapping project. Here is a picture link to the
first swab of the barrel after one shot.
http://my1.photozig.net/jascoesens/Album2/photodetails.html
Where did all the fine little filaments come from? and the little reddish balls? Is this
normal? I'm using Schuetzen BP FFFg from Germany.
Next question regarding a thorough cleaning process is about using the bronze bore brush.
Prior to this project my use of the brush has been minimal. What I'm finding is regardless
of whether I use the brush (approximately 10 back & forth strokes) 2,3 or 4 times and
whether I let the barrel set 1 minute or let the cleaing solvent soak in the barrel the 1st
few patches come out nearly black. It usually takes about 6-8 patches after a brushing
before they come out clean, Is this normal? If I use the brush cycle followed by the
patches 10 times, will I still get heavy black stuff out of my barrel? Is the black stuff
powder residue or residue from wearing away the bronze brush?
James

That picture looks nothing like I've ever seen. What are those red dingleberries? Why is the cloth worn through at the end?

My only suggestions are: Use a jag and cloth. Try GOEX powder.

Dingleberries no more.

:)

The red balls are red sulphur, according to the experts. I've never seen those filaments, but they look like more red sulphur. I don't know why the red sulphur forms at times and not at others, but it's more common with light loads and high humidity.

Black powder fouling is quite soluble, so I'd run several wet patches without waiting, then run the brush a few times, followed by alternate wet and dry patches. This through a cleaning isn't necessary for normal shooting, but you're firelapping, so it's back to bare metal between shots.

If humidity is really low, a brush works better than wet patches. The black stuff is powder fouling. Real black leaves lots of it.

Bye
Jack

Thanks Jack!
Good to know what's up with the red balls and filaments. Also too thanks for the info about about the cleaning process.
James

The reddish particles are most likely potassium sulfide (K2S) which is colorless and odorless until it is exposed to air when it instantly turns brownish-red to blood-red in color. K2S is just one of the many products of combustion that make up the approximately 55% post-combustion solids (fouling). K2S is normally seen as streaks in the rifling grooves, it's odd to see it formed into those little spheres, my guess is that it's bonded to contamination from whatever lapping compound you used. The fiber looking pieces are normal as sometimes the K2S will come out in strands like that if the wiping patch picks them up gently, normally you don't see it because it just gets blened into the black fouling upon wiping. If you're seeing the blood in the bore, it usually indicates your load is burning very clean.

I should have explained black powder fouling a little better. If the humidity is high, it's black goop, so your brush just moves it around. If the humidity is low like we get here on the prairies, it turn hard and grey. If you're shooting a flinter a look at the flashpan will show you the condition of the fouling. A brush loosens it up and you can shake it out of the barrel. A few patches should get the rest.

Bye
Jack

Thanks Mark and Jack!

James

Hi all,

I'm new to using real black powder for a fire-lapping project. Here is a picture link to the
first swab of the barrel after one shot.
http://my1.photozig.net/jascoesens/Album2/photodetails.html
Where did all the fine little filaments come from? and the little reddish balls? Is this
normal? I'm using Schuetzen BP FFFg from Germany.
Next question regarding a thorough cleaning process is about using the bronze bore brush.
Prior to this project my use of the brush has been minimal. What I'm finding is regardless
of whether I use the brush (approximately 10 back & forth strokes) 2,3 or 4 times and
whether I let the barrel set 1 minute or let the cleaing solvent soak in the barrel the 1st
few patches come out nearly black. It usually takes about 6-8 patches after a brushing
before they come out clean, Is this normal? If I use the brush cycle followed by the
patches 10 times, will I still get heavy black stuff out of my barrel? Is the black stuff
powder residue or residue from wearing away the bronze brush?
James


Red berrys are pretty common at certain pressure levels. Its partly reacted sulfur IIRC. Nothing to worry about. My 16 bore rifle gets really red with the lot of Schuetzen I have on hand. I usually shoot Swiss.
Is this a new rifle or a used one? If its used and has been shot with some "replica" powder with aggressive corrosion characteristics you might not be able to fix it. These will foul horribly with BP due to the pitting.
Fire lapping requires minimal velocity loads. If you are using a PRB with 10-15 grains might be OK I guess.
When you put cleaning solvent in the bore you need to plug the nipple or vent and pour in 2-3" in the bore then slosh it back and forth with the bore plugged with a finger. Then run in a semi-loose patch then dump, repeat, then rinse with clean cool water. Then wipe. BP fouling readily dissolves in water.
Hot water or cleaning solution will promote rust as it rapidly evaporates.
For 20 odd years I have used window cleaner mixed 1 part to 2 parts water. Usually the stuff with vinegar but I think anything will work. High tech, expensive solvents don't work any better if as well. Some concoctions are actually much worse. But in any case flushing the fouling out will clean the barrel faster.

Unless leaded or pitted BP fouled barrels should not need brushing I would tend to use a soft plastic brush rather than bronze. Stainless brushes will eat the bore.

Dan

Thanks Dan.

The rifle is a CVA Wolf, break open. Solvent is probably not the word to use. I have been using the cleaning mix promoted on this Beartooth site (Murphy's Oil soap, Peroxide and rubbing alcohol). Followed by WD40 patches after the patches start coming out very light gray.
(BTW the pictured patch was taken within 2 minutes of firing the shot; the 1st wet patch from the breach end).
After 3 wet patches, I move to the HOT soapy water bath, then brushing with the soapy water, then finishing with the cleaning solutions mentioned above.

James

Thanks Dan.

The rifle is a CVA Wolf, break open. Solvent is probably not the word to use. I have been using the cleaning mix promoted on this Beartooth site (Murphy's Oil soap, Peroxide and rubbing alcohol). Followed by WD40 patches after the patches start coming out very light gray.
(BTW the pictured patch was taken within 2 minutes of firing the shot; the 1st wet patch from the breach end).
After 3 wet patches, I move to the HOT soapy water bath, then brushing with the soapy water, then finishing with the cleaning solutions mentioned above.

James

Peroxide is a good oxidizer (think rocket fuel). But oxidizers are not what you want in a cleaning solvent.
You need WATER. Water dissolves BP fouling best. A little wetting agent helps cut any patch/bullet lube thus the Window cleaner.
People think up all sorts of strange cleaning solutions for BP. Like I said some are actually harmful. Water soluble oil is one such "cleaner" it developed a rep for leaving corrosive elements in bore 20+ years ago but some people still keep trying to use it.
Dentatured alcohol is good for drying a bore of water and washing the oil out. Rubbing alcohol has quite a but if water in it I think, as does the dilute peroxide.
I would likely pull the breech plug, if it has such a thing that is easily removable then clean it from the breech like a BPCR.

Dan