Any pointers on inspecting used scopes at a gun show to make sure they are good before bringing one home? The last one here had alot of scopes, but I was afraid of getting a bad one since I did not know what to look for. Thanks for the help.

I just go with the name brands. I look for any abuse, but I own a few scopes that have been on several guns that show marks from scope rings that I would not trade for any dollar amount. Hard to tell sometimes what makes a good scope. I wish you luck with your trades.Q

Go with namebrands with transferable warrenty. That way if there was a problem you wouldn't be out more than shipping costs + time.

I do as the others have indicated and stay with name brands in there upper lines. Recently had to return a Bushnell Elite 3200 for repairs as someone exceeded the adjustment travel and stripped something. Repair cost was ten dollars and I believe this was probably shipping and handling costs. Since I've been around for six decades I also am familiar with older scopes and don't hesitate with these especially certain models from certain makers. Over the years have cherry picked many old scopes for practically nothing. In some ways these are better scopes than those made today. Unfortunately some show signs of hard use with scratches, dings and assorted knocks. Variables run the power ring through its range of rotation feeling for catches, gritty movement etc. Look through the objective lens toward a low light source and look along the edges of the lens. If the scope has been dropped or subject to abuse or hard recoil and lens become chipped or cracked you usually can spot them doing this exam. Look through the eye piece and run the power ring through its range looking for reticle movement (rotation, eratic etc). Look through the scope at different levels of light intensity for lens flare (light relected off shinny surface inside scope will cause flare). Finally if possible look at near and far targets to see if focus is okay. Sometimes nothing will focus so I walk on and leave for someone else. My cardnal rule is never look at the low end scopes except for one maker whose older scopes were decent because of there country of manufacture and are so marked.

The first thing I would do is look at the appearance externally.
Look for external damage. Dents, major scratches and things that might have been cause by a hard hit. Look at the lens and thru the scope to ensure there is no scratches or visible internal damage to the cross hairs. Open up the adjustment covers and inspect adjusting screws. Physically look at the adjusting screws, they should not show any physical markings due to excessive turning after hitting the stops. Ensure proper travel of these adjustment screws from one extreme to the other. Be careful here, once you feel that stop, don't go any further.

This last step is only done if you have a know distance. Most rifle scopes are parallax free at 100yds, shotgun/muzzle loader scope usually 50 to 75 yds. You can find out from each manufacture which applies. Once you know what it is, you have a set range to look at, rest your scope on an object that will keep the scope steady while looking thru at a specific target. Hold the scope on target and move your head vertically up and down and then horizontally left and right. The cross hairs on the scope should be solid on target. I can't tell you how many scopes I have found with parallax problems. YES even brand new out of the box, from low end to very high manufactures.

That being said, and as previously stated by a fellow reloader, stick with the manufacture that provides warranty no matter who owns it. Very worst case it will cost you insurance and shipping to get it repaired.

Hope this helps. It has for me and many others.

Thanks Sparky357