Hi All,
I'm double checking with guys to see if there are any problems with doing the following... I have a few neck sized loaded cases and some neck sized primed cases, in .223 rem, that were prepared for a rifle which I have since sold. I now have a new .223, and want to use the cases. Is there any problem with A. Full length re-sizing the primed cases, and making sure that the expander ball is nowhere near the unfired primer. I thought I'd remove the de-priming pin before starting. Then continuing to load as normal. B. Pulling the bullets, emptying the powder and doing the same, with those that were already loaded . I have all the same type and batch of powder in the loaded cases.
Apart from the cases being primed, I don't see too much difference. I am of course very open to the wise words of those with more knowledge and experience.
I'm looking to end up with some brass to neck size and to narrow down some loads and bullet types / weigths for my new CZ 527 (1:9).
cheers
Brendon

First thing I would do is see if your neck sized brass will chamber in your new 223. If they will then I'd go ahead and shoot them. From that point I would neck size them for your new rifle. If they won't chamber then you'll have to FL resize them for you new 527.

I do like to anneal my cases every fifth firing or so. Pretty simple, just set them in a shallow pan with about a half inch of water in it then using a propane torch heat just the necks to red. Tip them over with a screwdriver (the cases are hot). Dry and reload. This really helps keep the neck from splitting and also if you neck size with a Lee collet neck sizer.

Bob covered the problem pretty well.
The only thing that I can add is that you do not want to restrict the bullet from leaving the cartridge mouth,in any way.
So,if you have to push a little hard to chamber those rounds,mark the neck and case body,to find where the friction is.You can safely resize the case body;slightly,but not the neck,at all.
Frank

Bob, the cases won't chamber in the new CZ, looks as if it is made with a tight chamber, compared to my old winchester model 70. I did a test, and full length re-sizeda couple of cases, these chamber with a slight resistance just when closing the bolt. I haven't tried annealing the cases, but after this round of firing, I'll see if I can get hold of a torch and give it a go. You anneal them before you re-size right? I have some 53 g HP match / 55g V-max / 60g SP (Hornady projectiles), and 5 x 60g HP (Sierra) I'd like to try to start with. I'll post the results, hopefully the weather will be ok, not looking to promising.
cheers
Brendon

Frank, thanks for the advice:). A question with the necks, if I resize the cases. If I full length resize them, won't the expander ball, reset the necks to the correct internal diameter? So there shouldn't be too much tension on the projectile, right?:confused:
cheers
Brendon

270Guy
Right!
My concern was resizing the loaded cartridge by forcing it in the chamber.
The problem is'nt very common,but can happen.
Frank

270Guy -

To answer your basic question, yes - you can resize the primed cases if you remove the decapping pin from the expander ball. Pull bullets, dump powder, shake cases to assure ALL powder has been removed, lube and resize. Have done this on several occasions where cartridges wouldn't chamber with no problems.

"Is there any problem with A. Full length re-sizing the primed cases,..."

If you mean from a safety point of view, there is really no hazard at all if the decap/expander rod is in place. That makes a closed chamber that nothing can fly out of and no primer has sufficent force to rupture a case, never mind the steel die itself.

If you remove the decap/expander assembly and have an open hole in the top of the die. Maybe you could have an eye injury if you were looking "down the bore" and a primer went off BUT it is a mechanical impossiblity to detonate a seated primer in a press unless you have a firing pin in the ram!

Thanks Frank, kdub, ranger335v & Bob. Have resized most of the primed cases, and the same with the loaded ones. I removed the decapping pin and backed the expander off slightly, just to be sure of no pressure on the inside of the primer. Now just have to find tiome and hope weather co-operates on trying out the new loads.
cheers
Brendon

Just a little FYI, as long as you go easy, you can decap live primers. They aren't actually in the case that tight. You pretty much have to create direct pressure on the priming mix to get them to go off. I've had a couple primers flip sideways in my my tube priming tool and squished them pretty hard and never had one go off.

You can punch out live primers without a problem it take like 24 lbs to set one off, grab one and throw it against concrete it won't go off you can't throw it hard enought.