My Uncle called me today saying he has a close friend that would like to sell a 12ga. Model 12. I don't know a great deal about it other than what my Uncle told me. He says it is very clean & the action is tight. No vent rib.

The asking price is $400. I looked in the Blue Book & if it is indeed as clean my Uncle says, that price is not too bad. The question is, what do you guys think? Thanks in advance.

THE ICEMAN

Model 12's can run the gammet of pricing, depending on the model, year mfg; any factory build specials, any customer mods, etc....

$400 seems like a fair price, but if yours is in fact a more rare version, you could be selling it short.

here are a few links to info in the 12.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winchester_Model_1912

http://www.nrapublications.org/TAR/Winchester12.asp

http://www.winchestercollector.org/guns/model12.shtml

http://www.fieldandstream.com/article_gallery/The-50-Best-Shotguns-Ever-Made/7

About this time last year I came across a model 12 in my dealer's shop that was a mess. I bought it for 20 bucks +NICS and with a bit of TLC it is without question the best functioning pump gun I have ever shot. Mine is of the 16 gauge flavor....

http://shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=43670

I hunted this shotgun last November, and hit every bird I pointed at. And without sounding the Braggart, there was one bird that was taken in a wild flush and fly at about 60 yards that fell like a stone from her improve modified barrel and Fiocchi's golden Pheasant #5's.

You mention the Blue Book as to price comparison. I've found that there very conservative in there pricing. My experence is an average of $200 higher on the top several % grades they list. Once you get down to the 85% and below then there listing seems accurate.

Winchester Model 12's are in my opinion one of the best pump shotguns ever made. When you compare the craftsmanship exhibited in each shotgun by todays mass production standards they are almost hand crafted custom firearms. Having shot all but the 28 gauge can attest to there accuracy and hard hitting performance.

Make sure it is chambered for the 2 3/4" shells which it should be if not an early manufactured varient. If its for 2 5/8" you will experience ejection problems until the receiver is modified (probably not the best thing to do if its original and a collectable).

Thank you gentlemen for the links/info.

My Uncle also mentioned that there is a recoil pad. Do you know if this would be original & would it hurt the value?

model 12 had a red rubber butt pad in later production years. about the consistency of a pencil eraser.

Thank you gentlemen for the links/info.

My Uncle also mentioned that there is a recoil pad. Do you know if this would be original & would it hurt the value?

Better let me buy it and we'll find a Ruger for you.:D

Well I finally took possession of my Mod 12. I finally got up to 'me mums' to get it at Thanksgiving. It looks pretty good. Aside from a few scuffs & some wear from use on the bluing plus a few scratches on the stock it looks alright.

A few questions... it has been a very long time since I patterned a shotgun, I don't remember, what is the procedure? It is a 12ga. 2 3/4 chamber w/ a mod. choke. Also, is there an easy way to minimize the scuffs on the stock & the bluing??? And where can I find info to tear the unit down for cleaning etc.??? Thanks.

congrats on your model 12. If you are like me and others, you'll not ever use another pump as fine as the 12.

for takedown, try this:

First cycle the gun making sure the barrel and magazine are clear of shells and the safety on. This is necessary to have the bolt and trigger mech in the right position to disassemble the easiest. Set the gun on the floor with the trigger facing you.

Next go to the top of the magazine and push the roll pin towards you. Then rotate the magazine tube counterclockwise until it stops about 1/2 turn.

Pull up on the magizine tube and forearm. Make sure the slice is pulled out past the receiver. Then turn the barrel and mag tube counterclockwise. This will separate the barrel and receiver.

Place receiver on its back with the trigger up. Remove the screw and slowly pull the trigger assembly up and back. Watch for the shell stop and make sure it does not fall in and bind if your gun has a shell guide on the trigger mech.

Next with a small flat screw driver remove the shell stop for the side of the receiver. Take notice of how flat it sets when in the proper position.

Then using the same small flat screw driver remove the retaining spring that is in the side of the receiver behind the bolt. Be carefully and do not pry and twist to remove simply get under it and lift up the reach in and slide it towards the back of the receiver. pay attention to how it comes out and put it back in the same way on assembly.

To remove the bolt keep receiver on its back and look opposite the shell slot there is two little tabs on the bolt next to the receiver wall. Using the screw driver move the front tab away from the reciever wall back towards the bolt. The bolt will then pop up and back.

Slide the bolt back and lift out.

Using an air hose the trigger assembly can be cleaned without taking it apart. I usually slowly release the hammer for better cleaning.

To reassemble, put the bolt back in then reach in and depress the firing pin button on the back of the bolt while pushing down and foreword. The bolt will lock into place. While holding it down move the back tab towards the bolt.

Then put the barrel and mag back on by reversing the removal directions. You should be able to use the pump slide to lock and hold the bolt. Simply pump the action and push forward hard. You may have to move the tabs along side the bolt to allow the slide to grab the bolt.

Then install the retaining spring. Place the spring in the slot, place your finger over the spring and push down and slide foreword. It will not go in unless the bolt is in the closed position.

Place the gun on its side, place the shell stop in and using two fingers one on each side of the center stud, move your fingers opposite of each other until it sets into place. Some guns because of wear may require the bolt to be moved back some to this to line up.

Once this is in place install trigger by slowly sliding it at an 15 degree angle. When you have the trigger in about 2/3rds of the way lift up on the front and bring the back down. It should sit right into place.


DO NOT FORCE THE TRIGGER INTO THE RECEIVER!

This can cause the shell stop to dislodge and be bent if you try and cycle the action.

It will take you some time to do all of these things, but after a few times you will be able to do this blindfolded just by feel. It may sound complicated but it really is a very easy gun to disassemble and reassemble.

I have 2 model 12's a 12 gauge skeet gun and a 12 gauge field. Like Chris says very easy to take down. Numrich arms has a schematic for it online and you can print it for referance. The best pump gun ever made. $400 for one in good condition is a fair price. I woulld love to have one in 28 gauge but would have to sell the house to get it. Paul

Iceman, I think you have done well! The Model 12 (older ones) are fine arms and seem to shoot like an extention to your arm.
I would not shoot steel in a Model 12 but lead and bismuth are fine. I pattern on 32-36" wide paper which I buy by the roll. Get the stuff used for wrapping packages or resin paper from the hardware store. I staple a square piece on a plywood board and shoot for the center at various ranges and with various loads. I label each sheet with the load and gun (if multiple guns or chokes are used), take em home and anylise when I have the time. I do this by drawing a 30" circle around the center of the pattern. Then I count up the holes and compare to the # in the load. This gives me the % but I also study the pattern for holes in it, voids a bird might slip thru. Since yours is a fixed modified choke I would start at 30 yds and work out to 45 yds with various weights of the shot I expected to use.
Patterning can be costly, buying a box of each shot to shoot 3 or 4 shells out of it and perhaps find the rest useless. I try to bum shells off of friends or load my own test loads. Each shot size, weight and powder charge, by different makers, may perform differently. In my duck gun, the 1 1/4 #2 Expert steel is useless but the DryLoc 1 1/4 #2 patterns really good out to 45 yds. The now discontinued DryLoc #1 steel were deadly out to 55 or 60 yds in my gun!
Good luck and happing hunting with a fine new companion.

Thanks for all the info Gentlemen.

Takedown looks like it will be "fun". I'm hoping to make the time next weekend to pattern it & find out where it shoots before I take it out quail hunting.