is 38 special brass safe for loading 38 special + p loads or is there + p brass? skeets

Yes it is. Just make sure your firearm is rated for +p loads. It would be a good idea to clearly mark your box of reloads so someone doesn't shoot them in a weaker gun.

Cheezywan

I just looked it up on the Starline brass page. There is properly stamped brass but that's the only difference, the headstamp, otherwise it's identical to 38sp brass.

One of the tricks of handloading for handguns is getting acceptable pressures right. Variations in brass thickness, bullet hardness, etc. can produce some pretty "exciting" variations in pressure.

Personally, I never max a .38 load out, and I don't load hot .38's for use in a .357. I have a very nice pre +P Smith that I don't want them to accidently wind up in.

If you intend to load +P .38's, it's a good idea to use brass so marked. 'Cause it's a short ride to +P+ on any day.

IMO, since there is +P marked brass available, I would use it to load the higher charge. As others have posted, you would not want this load to be mistakenly used in a gun not rated for +P. Would expect the exterior dimensions to be identical to .38 Special, interiorwise, I would not be surprised to find it a bit thicker.

I prefer to play in the shallow end of the pool myself. No real reason to +p or +p+ the 38 special. The 357 magnum is there for a reason. Is a good idea to remember that.

The 38 special cases (normal and +p) don't differ in dimention or strength other than lot to lot variation and headstamp. You could cut down some 357 magnum cases to 38 special length if this is a worry. Can load those to any level that is safe for any 38 special. BUT NOT TO 357 MAGNUM levels ever again! Even if to be fired in a magnum revolver.

The firearms are "proofed" to safely handle X amount of pressure and no more(safely). The case is only a gasket and does not have enough strength to contain anywhere near that stress without being contained in the chamber of the firearm.

Fun to experiment. Play safe!

Cheezywan

I prefer to play in the shallow end of the pool myself. No real reason to +p or +p+ the 38 special. The 357 magnum is there for a reason. Is a good idea to remember that.

The 38 special cases (normal and +p) don't differ in dimention or strength other than lot to lot variation and headstamp. You could cut down some 357 magnum cases to 38 special length if this is a worry. Can load those to any level that is safe for any 38 special. BUT NOT TO 357 MAGNUM levels ever again! Even if to be fired in a magnum revolver.

The firearms are "proofed" to safely handle X amount of pressure and no more(safely). The case is only a gasket and does not have enough strength to contain anywhere near that stress without being contained in the chamber of the firearm.

Fun to experiment. Play safe!

Cheezywan

please don't cut down .357 mag cases to .38 spl lenth for any reason! it's too easy to get mixed up with safe .357 mag brass and load to .357 mag pressures........................

please don't cut down .357 mag cases to .38 spl lenth for any reason! it's too easy to get mixed up with safe .357 mag brass and load to .357 mag pressures........................


A prudent handloader would become aware of the shorter than normal case come bullet seating time. A check of COAL will ring a bell for most.

Cheapskate that I am, I do it all the time with cases that have neck split. I trim them back past the split to 38 special length and use them until the split again. I'm also a fan of the 41 special. You can guess where those cases came from. Have also concidered the 41 short. Have not done any work there yet.

Cheezywan

Cheapskate that I am, I do it all the time with cases that have neck split. Cheezywan

Never even thought of that one.

I have a spackle bucket full of sorted, sized, and tumbled .38's and I'm lazier than I am cheap :)