Got into shooting a in-line black powder rifle last year (.50 CVA Optima Pro).
Dumb question.....could I cast my own bullets for this rifle, and why would I / or wouldnt I do this ?

What guidelines do you use to make sure the bullet diameter is sized to the bore of your particular rifle caliber ?? Where do you get that info.

I've always bought my stuff, but I'd like to take the next step.

Well, I'll try. Understand that I don't own a front-stuffer though.

One good reason would be that once you have a mold that casts a bullet that your rifle likes, you have access to an almost unlimited supply of those projectiles. No worry of a maker discontinuing a particular product.

Single-cavity mold turns out identical product at every cast. YOU are in charge of quality control.

That's all I can offer.

Cheezywan

Got into shooting a in-line black powder rifle last year (.50 CVA Optima Pro).
Dumb question.....could I cast my own bullets for this rifle, and why would I / or wouldnt I do this ?

What guidelines do you use to make sure the bullet diameter is sized to the bore of your particular rifle caliber ?? Where do you get that info.

If you only shoot 50 shots per year, it would make no sense to cast your own bullets. If you're shooting 1000, it makes lots of sense economically, but perhaps not under other considerations.

I'm not able to give you clear answers, I can just raise questions that should direct you where you should go.

If you have an old Coleman stove, old Stainless pot you can dedicate to melting Lead in, are allowed to do dirty, stinky hobbies by others you may live with, and have space outside to do them, casting Lead is less ill-advised. You'll need a dipper in addition to the other equipment. Remember, you'll be dealing with 700F toxic molten metal. I have not seen molds for casting Lead bullets intended solely for sabot use, but they may be out there. I see lots of articles about people using heavy cast pistol bullets in sabots.

Are you going to try to cut costs or shoot more? Are you willing to give up a little bit of performance? Are you willing to experiment a lot before you find results? An article on experimenting with sabots:
http://www.gunweek.com/2004/feature0610.html

That type of muzzle loader typically uses a bullet smaller than .50 caliber, held by a plastic sabot or having a plastic skirt. The other types of common muzzle loader bullets are round balls (usually in a lubricated cloth patch), and Minne' Balls (grooved lubricated upside down Dixie Cup made of Lead). All of these bullets are smaller than the distance between the tops of the Rifling Lands in the bore.

Assuming you go with sabots, the Inside diameter of the sabot will determine the diameter of the bullet needed. Various manufacturers make sabots. Some I found with a quick internet search:
http://www.mmpsabots.com/green.html
http://www.knightrifles.com/catalog.aspx?catid=sabots

An on-line article:
http://www.epmuzzleloaders.com/tips.html#section8

I typically shoot Minne' Balls, and I don't do a lot of it any more, because I hate cleaning black powder any more.

CDD

OK I will try this one. Why Not cast your own bullets.?? That would be an easier question.

I cast because I can shoot all day long for a cheap price. And I really enjoy casting. That about sums it up. And the best part is I can cast and load exactly what I want. Tom.

I cast because it can be fun and an economical way to feed my shooting obsessions. Another factor and it can be called political is that if the source of ready made bullets dry up I still can plug away.

You can cast bullets for a sabot gun. It will be cheaper but there is some work involved. You might find that your bullets are more accurate than store bought.

Bravo guys if that don't get him casting nothing will. Also I'd like to add as long as you can get wheel weights from your favorite local tire shop,why not cast your own. I even have a tool to make hollow points and they work very well on deer in my 45-70 and 38-55.

It depends what your velocity is. I have a Savage ML2 that I cant cast for as the velocity with smokeless powder is too high!

There is a cutoff in velocity that the lead will not be suitable above, and accuracy will suffer. The cutoff escapes me right now, but if you shoot regular bp/pyro/777, your probably nowhere near it. Cast and give it a try.

Slug your bore, measure the depth of your lands and groves, (sabot shooters have shallower groves then round ball shooters), determine the rate-of-twist, and pick a bullet weight that will shoot best in that R.O.T. Choose a sabot (they will come in different thicknesses) to make a tight seal in your barrel. You want it tight, but not so tight that you have to pound it down with a hammer (this will deform the bullet).

Good luck,

kb

For me, it's the satisfaction of being able to down the "Mighty Beast" with something that I make myself. You know, like our ancestors did !!! Sometimes taking a step back is the best way to enjoy the view.
HD1

Cost- I'm still working on lead I got for free. Availability of bullets- since I have lead on hand I wasn't affected by the bullet shortage. Designs- I can get bullet designs, including custom, that suit me and aren't offered by the bigger manufacturers.

I started reloading to save money. It didn't
I started casting to save money. It didn't

I have all kinds of toys to make it easier, faster, more accurate, etc...

I shoot tons more than I did before.

Biggest reason - I like reloading and casting about as much as I like shooting. I'm a putzer and sometimes 10 minutes depriming or some other step gets me thinking right.

And has been mentioned, it's neat hunting with things you make. Can't remember last time I bought ammo for hunting. Cept 22 lr.

I started casting out of curiosity. Now it's as much of a hobby as shooting and reloading. For more info on casting bullets read Lyman's Cas bullet Handbook, probably available at your local library or http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_b?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=Lyman+Cast+Bullet+Haandbook&x=22&y=26 (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_b?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=Lyman+Cast+Bullet+Haandbook&x=22&y=26)

Every dime I save on bullets I can spend on primers and powder............

Why You Want to Cast Your Own

Price per bullet is significantly less if you cast your own. If I only compare my cost (per bullet) to the cost of commercial cast bullets, it's about 1/4 to 1/5 storebought prices. If I compare my cost to that of commercial jacketed...it's even better.

If you like somewhat mindless, repetitive tasks that you find therapeutic, such as knitting or crocheting, then chances aren't too bad you'll enjoy casting.

If you think of bullet casting as an integral part of the historical aspects of owning and usnig a muzzle loader, and if you enjoy the historical aspects of things as sort of a creative anachronism, you will likely enjoy knowing you can make your own bullets whenever you need them.

If you shoot a lot or plan to, you break even on your equipment costs very, very quickly (in terms of shots fired).

Why You Don't Want to Cast Your Own

If you find it very difficult to get 2 hours of uninterrupted time to yourself without causing a fuss around the house, casting may not be for you.

If you simply don't want to deal with the management of the equipment (i.e., molds, burners, pots or furnaces, safety gear, propane tanks, etc) including storing it when not in use, then it may be too much trouble.

If you frequently have small pets or children underfoot in your work area and find it difficult to monitor or control them.

If you simply would prefer to spend your time doing other things and don't mind spending a lot more for bullets than you have to, don't shoot much, etc.

For Me

Commercially-sold bullets alone, right now, cost 2-3 times as much as my loaded cartridges cost. When I go to the range to practice, I shoot no fewer than 200 rds, sometimes twice that. I'd like to be able to do that weekly, or at least bi-weekly. I simply cannot afford that expensive a hobby buying bullets at .15 to .20 (or more) each. I'm able to cast late at night for 2-3 hours uninterrupted, and size/lube the following night. Two nights' work yielded about 1,200 bullets, at a total cost of about $60, roughly. No one I know sells .45 ACP ammo loaded with 255 gr bullets, and that's what I want. So I do it. This is my story. :)

Scrounge up a bunch of lead, and an old spoon, and you'll ask yourself "why the heck did I do that?"

Order a melting pot, and you'll ask yourself, "why the heck did I do that?"

Buy a mould, and you'll ask yourself, "why the heck did I do that?"

Get a sizer and some lube, and you'll ask yourself, "why the heck did I do that?"

Melt your lead, stir in some some tin and maybe flux to clean off the dross, and you'll ask yourself, "why the heck did I do that?"

Pour your lead into the mould, let it cool, and open it to drop out a nice shiny new bullet, and you'll ask yourself, "why the heck don't I do that again?" ...and again ...and again!

:)

.

I own and shoot a .54 cal. Harpers Ferry M1805. I buy my round balls from wally world every deer season, or from Cabells's.

If I shot that Flintlock as often as I shoot my .45 Colt or .44-40 guns, I'd cast a bucket load every spring.

I have a partiality to Remington's Golden Balls. They are Very accurate out of my ML Rifle.

I typically shoot Minne' Balls, and I don't do a lot of it any more, because I hate cleaning black powder any more.
I'd shoot my BP a lot more except like you, I hate cleaning it. However a while back I read some new way to do an easy clean on BP and I didn't copy it. :mad:
Anyone have any modern magic stuff that eases that job???

Ref. your question of bullet diameter, the bore serves as a precise diameter "sizer" when we start the bullet. And we use pure lead, not a harder alloy, partly because of that starting requirement.