For the sake of this discussion let us assume that Deadeye's revolver is capable of shooting 1" 6 shot groups at 25 yards time after time. Deadeye is also capable of shooting that well. How does Deadeye go about finding what load his revolver likes best? Deadeye has been predominantly a rifleman and knows how to tweak his handloads for his bolt action rifle to get the most accurate loads but he has not figured out what all makes for a great shooting revolver load. With his rifles he mainly works to find a bullet that his barrel likes while working with a sensible powder. Fine tuning involves adjusting pwder charge and seating depth. Generally he has had fine results just using one primer. But with his revolver loads he wonders how much affect powder charge and crimp strength and primer choice might have. He has found that the powder charge can affect the accuracy but so far he has not messed around trying differing crimp strengths or different primers. He has used mainly the Wincester WLP primer and a crimp strong enough to hold a 335 grain Cast bullet at 1230 fps from his 45 Colt even though working with lighter loads. Should he bother trying different crimp strengths or primers? Thanks, Brian.

Especially the inside. Always use one case make and batch if possible. Yes I have found in the .357 that magnum primers can make or break the load.. in the .38 special also. It's something to try.. but reduce your powder charge at least 15% at first, maybe 25%, and work back up watching for excessive pressure signs. (I am being cautious here just in case) Personally I use a taper crimp die as the final step, and do not roll crimp revolver loads.

My opinion is that you will generally get the best accuracy when using new or once fired brass of the same lot. The reason being that neck tension is just as important as the crimp. When a case is fired and resized it looses elasticity. Make sure your expander is .003-.004" under bullet diameter. It you are shooting large capacity rounds with heavy bullets a firm roll crimp will be needed. I would highly recommend a Lee factory crimp die or the Redding profile crimp die. After you take care of that, then start changing powder charges, primers, ect.

I have always, taken great care in prepping my brass for uniformity, same brand cases (WW if I am going to shoot in my levergun also, WW has a larger rim in most cals), drill out the primer flash holes (.081 wire drill) remove the burrs from the flash hole on the inside of the case, these holes are extruded. Make all cases from new, a uniform length even if you have to trim them minimum, this is for the sake of load developement from the git go( uniform lenght, you can set your crimp die and know where the bullet is going to be. ) Load all the cases with a light load something pleasant to shoot, (cast loads ) blow out all the cases to a uniform size while practicing your shooting. Then set your sizer to a the least amt you can and still get a good bullet seating and function in all the guns you plan to shoot with. Then I am ready for a serious load developement. The factory crimp die is a good product, but makes another step in the process, most often I try to avoid this step, but some guns like it. So far I only have one gun that requires it, but that is a straight walled rifle. Far as primers are concerned, I switched to all rifle primers, and never looked back. Take care and have fun. Swany

I feel bullet selection is the most important aspect of obtaining accurate loads,most my accurate rounds are just slightly under maximum listed powder charges.
I only use two powders,usually use remmington bullets for plinking and gold dots for hunting/defense.
I buy whatever primers are available at the local shop,and reload my brass indefinately,and find accuracy changes very little.

Same headstamp isn't the same as the same lot...even with idential headstamps, if a case has been loaded more than the other cases, the bullet pull will differ.
The case prep you outline is more than enough...just try to keep the cases together in lots and not reload one lot of cases until they ALL need it.

At some place, improvments are going to be from the little "ticky" stuff. Find that expander ball/neck tightness has more effect tahn any amount of crimp..can't really expect a little thin edge of rolled over case to have the same gripping power as a tight fitting case neck...crimp will add some bullet pull valure, but not nearly as much as decreading the expander ball's size.

Kind of hosed on revovler seating depth if you use the existing crimp grooves...can uniformaly trim cases to get a lesser OAL, but getting a greater OAL is a bit tricky.

From here, it's a matter of isolating variables and testing. Primers are worth a try, as are small variations in powdre charge, Lube does more than reduce leading, and it may be worth a try...hardly anyone does this, and I'll admit the effects are ususlly very small...and probably would take many rounds fired to get a valid comparison.

Recover some fired bullets in the best condition possible and let them tell you what may be goind on....skidding? Rifling marks a bit longer on one side than the other?
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What I think happens is that eventually you just set a goal...lets say 4MOA...and accept whatever load gives you that amount of accuracy and go on about shooting.