Dilema:

I am getting ready to load .357 Sig for the first time.
Seems that this cartidge is more complicated than most.

I currently reload .38 / 357(M) / 9 / 40 / 45acp / 45 Colt.
Use a auto indexing progressive (RCBS) Piggyback III
I use Carbide Dies and never experienced a need to case lube.

.357 Sig appears to be different.

A big problem; (so I read) is bullet retention due to the very short bearing surface for resisting bullet pull (in OR out) due to the .357Sig's short bottleneck and minimum bullet to case contact surface.
Flaring and Crimp need to be minimized because the .357 Sig headspaces on the case mouth.
( I know some say it is the shoulder, and some say both - but in any case it is a factor)

Only Dillon ($$$) seems to make carbide dies.
(Even so, they say you need to lube some > so why spend the $)

Given all that, it seems I need to case lube before sizing............

SO:
I am advised that I have to lube the cases before sizing.
BUT:
Need to avoid getting lube on the bullet when I set it onto the charged case; making the marginal bullet retention even more tenuous.

How do I do this using a progressive technique ????

I'm not going to "wash" my hands between case insertion onto the progressive shell plate, and seating the bullet after dropping the powder.

Do I have to size separately, clean the case lube off, and then load the case "pre Sized" onto the plate?

(That kind of defeats the advantage of a progressive press.)

What's a guy to do ??

1) Am I being over cautious about case lube on the bullet?
2) Is the bullet retention danger in 357 Sig over-emphasized?
3) Is the need to case lube (357Sig) in Steel Dies overstated?
4) Have I gone over my head (hassle tolerance wise) with 357Sig?


renaissance needs to know

(renman@concentric.net )

HeyRenaissance
See the info I posted in the handgun cartridge forum.
Regards Jubal

What's a guy to do ??

With the Dillon carbide die for 357 Sig lube is not required. My gunsmith has been loading with that die and no lube for several years.

Lube is required with any steel die whether it be the Sig or anything else. A friend of mine does his Sig this way and only lubes every other case.

Neck retention: Be careful not to bell the neck at all to retain maximum retention. Just like loading a bottleneck rifle cartridge. Of course you'll need to stay with plated or jacketed bullets.

If bullet drop into the case worries you some powders such as AA#9 fill the case sufficiently that the bullet can't go back into the case.

We're going through literally thousands of Sig rounds loaded this way with no problem.

What's a guy to do ??

With the Dillon carbide die for 357 Sig lube is not required. My gunsmith has been loading with that die and no lube for several years.

Lube is required with any steel die whether it be the Sig or anything else. A friend of mine does his Sig this way and only lubes every other case.

Neck retention: Be careful not to bell the neck at all to retain maximum retention. Just like loading a bottleneck rifle cartridge. Of course you'll need to stay with plated or jacketed bullets.

If bullet drop into the case worries you some powders such as AA#9 fill the case sufficiently that the bullet can't go back into the case.

We're going through literally thousands of Sig rounds loaded this way with no problem.

AA 9 is the stuff....I also like Gold Dots....147 grn....I must admit that I lube every cartridge case....wipe them and then inspect and measure them for length..and extra step but it results in imcresed reliabiliy. My son shootsthis round in a Springfield XD and it is very accurate and powerful. I bell the necks slightly, apply a slight taper crimp and have not had a problem. I may change over to a Lee factory crimp though as I find this is quicker.