Just wondering if the .22 magnum version of the Ruger 10/22 is as accurate as it's 'little brother'. Anybody had a chance to shoot one? I find my 10/22 is about the ultament in a fast bunny busting brush rifle.( try saying that three times real fast!)

I bought one last week and, after removing the rear sight and mounting a Simmons 44 Mag 2-7x44 scope, noticed that the bolt was very loose. Much looser than an SKS-56 or an AK-47/MAC-90. I did not want to return it to the dealer because I scratched the barrel when removing the rear sight so I took it to my gunsmith. He took one look at it and said return it to Ruger for a bolt replacement because as loose as it is it won't shoot worth a hoot.

The bolt on my 10-22 .22 long rifle is tight and accuracy is very good. That is why I bought the 10-22 .22 Magnum.

I won't know how good or bad it shoots until I get it back from Ruger.

Nitro..how odd about the loose bolt. You would think something like that would never get out of the factory. I inherited my 10/22 from my father. We went plinking together right after he bought it and found he couldn't hit anything. Turns out the front sight was so loose it was traveling back and forth in its dovetail groove. So loose it almost fell out before he noticed it! You wouldn't expect such things from a Ruger.
Please make a post on your .22 mag after you shoot a while, I'd really like to know what you think of it. Talk to ya later.....Bill

I have one, and have used it for a couple of years. It will consistently shoot 2" at 100 yds with WW SuperX. I've tried five different types of .22Mag ammo, and the SuperX is the best in MY rifle. One problem that I did have was that sometimes the cartridge wouldn't fire. The rim was dented where the firing pin had struck it, but no bang. It was worse with Remington and Federal and better with the WW. I took the rifle apart and used my mousetail file on the slot in the firing pin, taking off a few thousandths. It works 100% now with WW and Federal, but still misfires occasionally with the Remington. It doesn't shoot as well with the Remington anyway, so it doesn't bother me.

mikej...2" at 100 yds with a carbine. Well that sure answers my question about accuracy! Wow. By he way, I have the same problem with my 10/22 long rifle. Firing pin indent on rim but no detonation. It rarely happens and I thought it might be the ammo I've been using (federal). Since, somehow, I ended up with three 550 round boxes of the stuff, I'll live with it. Might shave the face of that pin a little tho. Thanks....Bill

bowtek,
I have both a 10/22 bought new in the 70's, and a 10/22 Mag, bought new when it first came out which I think was sometime in the late 90's.(I've slept since then, so the exact year is fuzzy). The 10/22 has worked flawlessly since purchase, and has given 3/4" to 1 1/2" groups at 50 yds depending on ammo. WW Powerpoints are best. The 10/22 Mag gave problems from round one, which I described above. When I described filing the firing pin, I was talking of filing the slot in the firing pin, not the face, or the part that impacts the cartridge rim. It looked to me that there was a stamping burr on the aft (rear) end of the slot, so I took a mousetali file and carefully removed a few thousandths. It seemed to work. Can't recommend filing the face of the pin as that might cause a case rupture, and all that entails. Sorry if I wasn't clear in the first explanation.

bowtek,
I have both a 10/22 bought new in the 70's, and a 10/22 Mag, bought new when it first came out which I think was sometime in the late 90's.(I've slept since then, so the exact year is fuzzy). The 10/22 has worked flawlessly since purchase, and has given 3/4" to 1 1/2" groups at 50 yds depending on ammo. WW Powerpoints are best. The 10/22 Mag gave problems from round one, which I described above. When I described filing the firing pin, I was talking of filing the slot in the firing pin, not the face, or the part that impacts the cartridge rim. It looked to me that there was a stamping burr on the aft (rear) end of the slot, so I took a mousetali file and carefully removed a few thousandths. It seemed to work. Can't recommend filing the face of the pin as that might cause a case rupture, and all that entails. Sorry if I wasn't clear in the first explanation.
..you were very clear...I think I just read your post to fast and got it turned around..........thanks...Bill

I have a Ruger 10/22 in 22 mag. Jamming (stovepiping) problem. Took it to two very experience local gunsmiths. Each thought they fixed it. Found out they could not because it was a design problem. Sent it back to Ruger and they put a new design extractor in it. Still have the same problem. After about 40 rounds it jams. NOW WHAT?

Anyone else in this group with this problem?

I've heard the Remington 597 RFM is reliable and now wish I'd bought it rather than the Ruger.

Donmc,
I just purchased a Ruger 10/22lr about a month ago. I've been through 3 550 ammo bricks. 2 were remington and 1 was federal. The federal seems to shoot a little better and is a slightly longer thicker cartridge, but I get stovepiping every second or third shot with it. I never saw the problem once with the remington brick, but did get a few duds that were dented with no bang. Next weekend, Ill try another few hundred rounds of remington to see if the problem was the ammo. Also I have cleaned my rifle (bore and chamber) after all but one range trip, in case if might matter.

Not to get too far off track, but I'm trying to get ready for my first deer season and want to be a better shot. At the moment I only have a .22 available. Since there are alot a people posting with experience with a .22... What is a realistic goal for group size, shooting free-hand with a 22lr at 50yds? Is 50yds a good distance to practice at with the .22 or should a go farther back 75 or 100? If so, what are good no-rest groups at those distances?

My rifle is far more accurate than I will ever be capable of. So far it will put 5 shots in a little more than 1/2 in square at 50yds from a sand bag if I do my part. At 25yds it will chew the center out of the bullseye. I'm incredibly happy with this and have been told that this is typical for ruger .22s.

sorry for the change in topic,
josie

Donmc,
I just purchased a Ruger 10/22lr about a month ago. I've been through 3 550 ammo bricks. 2 were remington and 1 was federal. The federal seems to shoot a little better and is a slightly longer thicker cartridge, but I get stovepiping every second or third shot with it. I never saw the problem once with the remington brick, but did get a few duds that were dented with no bang. Next weekend, Ill try another few hundred rounds of remington to see if the problem was the ammo. Also I have cleaned my rifle (bore and chamber) after all but one range trip, in case if might matter.

Not to get too far off track, but I'm trying to get ready for my first deer season and want to be a better shot. At the moment I only have a .22 available. Since there are alot a people posting with experience with a .22... What is a realistic goal for group size, shooting free-hand with a 22lr at 50yds? Is 50yds a good distance to practice at with the .22 or should a go farther back 75 or 100? If so, what are good no-rest groups at those distances?

My rifle is far more accurate than I will ever be capable of. So far it will put 5 shots in a little more than 1/2 in square at 50yds from a sand bag if I do my part. At 25yds it will chew the center out of the bullseye. I'm incredibly happy with this and have been told that this is typical for ruger .22s.

sorry for the change in topic,
josie

I zero mine at 16 yards....and I have a mildot scope on it..welll...I use the dots to estimate point of impact...we routinely spin a steel target at 150 yards with this little rifle a nd have even made some 200 yard hits dancing a coke bottle if the wind isn't b lowing.....they are a lot of fun....

most deer are taken at less than 200 yards....if you can hit the bottom of a soda can at 25 consistantly then you will have no problems.....once you graduate to a deer rifle.....shoot at paper plates...this is the kind of accuracy you will require at hunting ranges...