I'm a long time Marlin fan, but have decided I need a Winchester 94. I'm not interested in a new one because of the safety and rebounding hammer. I have found two used 94s I am interested in. Serial numbers are 4,861,XXX and 2,276,XXX with asking prices of $222.00 and $450.00 respectively.

Both guns are in good shape, i.e., no pitting and screw heads in good shape. The newer gun has light surface rust, a couple of dings in the forearm, and nice figure in the butt stock. The older one has nice bluing, more dings in the butt stock that the other one, and plainer wood.

I'm leaning towards the newer one because for the price difference I can get it reblued and refinish the wood myself and have a beautiful gun.

I suspect the older gun is a pre 64 gun. It has a metal crosshatched butt plate.

What can you tell me about the date of manufacture of both guns and is the older one really worth the cost difference?

Thanks for your help.

I would pass on the newer one unless you can get it for alot less due to the rust which wouldn't be considered normal wear and would reduce the guns grading to "poor" regardless of rest of the guns condition .Being a post 64 I would think $125.00,maybe at best considering your gonna put more than that into it to have a professional grade blue job done to it. As to the pre 64 I can tell you that a 70% specimine should bring about $300.00 or so dollars(per blue book), so if you feel or have someone in the know determine that the gun is in better condition than 70% than it may be worth the asking price barring it's in original unaltered condition.


444fitch

I'm a long time Marlin fan, but have decided I need a Winchester 94. I'm not interested in a new one because of the safety and rebounding hammer. I have found two used 94s I am interested in. Serial numbers are 4,861,XXX and 2,276,XXX with asking prices of $222.00 and $450.00 respectively.

Both guns are in good shape, i.e., no pitting and screw heads in good shape. The newer gun has light surface rust, a couple of dings in the forearm, and nice figure in the butt stock. The older one has nice bluing, more dings in the butt stock that the other one, and plainer wood.

I'm leaning towards the newer one because for the price difference I can get it reblued and refinish the wood myself and have a beautiful gun.

I suspect the older gun is a pre 64 gun. It has a metal crosshatched butt plate.

What can you tell me about the date of manufacture of both guns and is the older one really worth the cost difference?

Thanks for your help.
http://ca.geocities.com/winchesterguns/serial94.html

There is the link to the dates. First one is 1957 second is 1980. The first one will hold it's value and go up. The second will not. Hold out for a better one. I picked up a pre-64 for $250 at a gun show. I also have one made 1916 with 26" Octagon BBL. Thos will go as high as $1200 but $750-900 is more likely. Good condition carbines pre-64 will run between $400-$700. Hope that helps;)

444Fitch, I would rate the pre 64 as 85% since there is no bluing wear and just a few dings in the stock. It did not have a front sight hood eventhough it had the groves in the front sight ramp for it. Other than that, it appears to be original. Did the pre 64s come with a front sight hood?

Levergun, I understand about the value retention of the two guns, but that isn't a big thing with me. I have guns that are worth three to four times what I paid for them new many years ago, Belgian Brownings as an example, but they won't put me on easy street if I sold them. I buy guns for my own enjoyment not collector value. If I bought the pre 64, I would be tempted to refinish the stocks which would reduce the value of the gun anyway.

If I bought the newer one and had it reblued I would have a beautiful gun for about $100.00 less than buying the pre 64. ON the other hand, it is a pre 64. What to do. Isn't it great having these kind of decisions to make?

Yeah it is!!!!

But remember, the newer one was made in 1980.

You could go out and buy a brand new one for what $300?

If you spend $250 plus $100 plus or minus, for a used one?

See my point? You could buy one of them new legacy's in 38-55!:D What caliber are those 94's anyway? That is another thing that will raise value.

ejc
The newer gun to which you refer falls into the post-64 and pre-angle eject range. Those guns have an investment cast receiver which was plated with iron. The iron was then blued. It is typical to find one in this historical range with a haze of rust on it where it was at one time neglected. As soon as it is polished ready for blueing the very thin plating is polished off and you are down to whatever alloy was chosen for its good casting qualities. It is unfortunate that this alloy does not blue, but rather turns a plum color. You could probably get it black chromed or paint it with one of the bake-on enamels. In any event, it is not just a simple blue job. Good luck.

Well there ya go! In my opinion, stick with the older originals and ya can't go wrong!;)

Love them leverguns!:D

ejc,

94 Winchesters had the ramp with hood front sights since circa 1936. Listen to the fella's and get the pre-64, you'll be money ahead in the long run.

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm going to get the pre 64 today.

Levergun, they are both 30/30 caliber.

ejc
The newer gun to which you refer falls into the post-64 and pre-angle eject range. Those guns have an investment cast receiver which was plated with iron. The iron was then blued. It is typical to find one in this historical range with a haze of rust on it where it was at one time neglected. As soon as it is polished ready for blueing the very thin plating is polished off and you are down to whatever alloy was chosen for its good casting qualities. It is unfortunate that this alloy does not blue, but rather turns a plum color. You could probably get it black chromed or paint it with one of the bake-on enamels. In any event, it is not just a simple blue job. Good luck.
Excuse me, I've been reading what you say about the receiver, and it's true. It is very hard to blue ie, even with the best chamical, which in my opinion is OUTERS GUN BLUE. I tried it with a 1914 issue 30-30 1894 Model. Every part of it got the blue, except for the receiver. I got very upset. I'm gonna try to chrome it along with the barrel bands and the butt plate. I want it just for decor, as it isn't even safe for shooting because of its age. What do you say? Will it that receiver take chrome?
KHAN

Khan
What I said about the gun that was the subject of this thread does not apply to your 1914 vintage gun. Yours will blue without problem in the normal hot salt blueing process used by most gunsmiths, or it can be rust blued using a suitable solution. I can't speak to the success with any cold blues as I have never tried it. As to the safety of your gun, if it is in good working order there is no reason why factory loads and their equivalent handloads won't work just fine. If there is a question as to the safety of the gun, a trip to a competent gunsmith might be worth your while.

Khan
What I said about the gun that was the subject of this thread does not apply to your 1914 vintage gun. Yours will blue without problem in the normal hot salt blueing process used by most gunsmiths, or it can be rust blued using a suitable solution. I can't speak to the success with any cold blues as I have never tried it. As to the safety of your gun, if it is in good working order there is no reason why factory loads and their equivalent handloads won't work just fine. If there is a question as to the safety of the gun, a trip to a competent gunsmith might be worth your while.
OK, however, using cold blueing, the barrel got a beautiful black-blue color, and the receiver didn't stop rusting after the chemical was applied. I'll keep trying. But it's good to know that my receiver wasn't made with that "blueing-unfriendly" alloy. I said that it might not be good for shooting, because I feel too much movement of the cartridge when I place it in the chamber. I believe there's too much tolerance because of wear. But I 'll ask my gunsmith to check it with the proper gauges to be sure. I'd oove to shoot with that historical piece.
KHAN

KHAN,

The bare receiver is not uncommon, it is due to the high nickel content of the steels used during the general time frame of the early 1900s thru the pre-W.W.II years, its known as "Winchester Flaking" to collectors. It is actually more uncommon to see good blue remaining on the receiver of 94s from that era. I have three prewars ('27, '31 & '39) and a 1894 from 1911, three look as though the receivers have been nickel plated, and the forth is getting there. You can put a nice blue job back on the receiver but, chances are it won't stay.

KHAN,

The bare receiver is not uncommon, it is due to the high nickel content of the steels used during the general time frame of the early 1900s thru the pre-W.W.II years, its known as "Winchester Flaking" to collectors. It is actually more uncommon to see good blue remaining on the receiver of 94s from that era. I have three prewars ('27, '31 & '39) and a 1894 from 1911, three look as though the receivers have been nickel plated, and the forth is getting there. You can put a nice blue job back on the receiver but, chances are it won't stay.
What if I chrome that receiver? Do have any experience, or have you heard something about it?

Khan,

A competent plating or refinishing company should have no trouble doing the work for you. Plating and the rebluing have devalued the Winchester to a collector though, if that is of any concern.

Khan,

A competent plating or refinishing company should have no trouble doing the work for you. Plating and the rebluing have devalued the Winchester to a collector though, if that is of any concern.
Yes, I'm aware of that concern. Anyway, I'm not intending to sell it. I want to keep it for myself, for my own collection. I take gunsmithing and gun restoration as a hobby. I don't do it for business, just for my own eyes. So I prefer a nice looking old '94 in my small collection, than a great-value rusted one. And what's more important is the fact that I did it with my own hands. Wish you understand.
Thanks for your advise.
KHAN

Khan,

I understand completely, best of luck with your project.