I have heard differant things about the wire solder you buy at hardware store.Most are lead free and 95% tin?Then I've been told that is soft and not the right kind of tin to use to reach a 20/1 lead tin alloy.Can anyone explain about this "wire solder"? Is it the correct type tin to mix with lead?

There's a bunch of types and if you can't verify what's in it, don't use it. For goodness sakes, don't use flux-core! Unless you like to solder the mould halves together.....

Try a plumbing supply store and get 50/50 lead/tin solder.

First, what you describe is called lead free solder and is for plumbing work. Don't depend on all solder fitting this description because it doesn't.

As you note, the lead free is 95-5, 95% Tin 5% Antimony. As these are both elemental metals, there is no way that they can be the "wrong type". The antimony is in a small enough proportion that if you use this to alloy with pure lead the result will be for practical purposes identical to what you would get with pure tin.

To answer the person who told you that this was the "wrong type" of tin is, in short, an idiot!

Yeah! What Alk8944 said. I buy rolls of 95/5 solder from Menards electrical dept. Works good for me.==Bob

95/5 works for me too. You're buying the tin, not lead, so it's cheaper than 50/50. Just be sure that the 5 is antimony. There's a 95/5 that's 5% something else (selenium?). Weigh a foot off the coil on your powder scale and do the math to get your blend.

Bye
Jack

Mike G
Interesting about your note on the flux-core solder.

I would have thought the flux would burn off and all would be ok, but your note seem to point different direction.

I was going to use some flux core this weekend that I bought at a yard sale for a dime a roll. I got 10 rolls for a buck of 60/40.

Appreciate you answer, so I dont' make a mistake with a brand new SAECO mould.

44 WCF

There is a difference between the 'flux' that we use to clean up lead alloy, and the 'flux' used in solder. Unfortunately they are two entirely different things with a confusing name.

Flux for our bullet alloy is just some form of grease or oil, basically, which helps get impurities out of the melt and re-combine oxidized tin. No harm there. I would think that any 'rosin'-type soldering flux would fit into this category.

Some soldering 'fluxes' are acids. They are designed to etch the surface of whatever you are soldering, to remove any oxidization, so the solder will permanently bond.

Just a guess, if you were to melt down the solder, 'flux' it like any other bullet metal, scrape the crud out, then pour it into ingots, you MIGHT take care of the problem that way. In theory you should burn off any of the 'flux' that came in the solder. In theory. I haven't tried it and don't necessarily recommend it.

Or whatever is in that roll may be totally harmless to bullet moulds. Unfortunately the ingredients of the flux probably aren't listed.

Anyway - hope someone else can help with this.

If you don't get any other answers here, go over to www.sixgunner.com, the 'campfire', and post a question for Glen Fryxell (I think I spelled his name right).

I tossed a roll of acid core solder that lost an argument with a heavy truck tire into the pot. The cast iron pot rusted as soon as it cooled off. I remelted and fluxed with baking soda. No Thanks.

Bye
Jack

I tossed a roll of acid core solder that lost an argument with a heavy truck tire into the pot. The cast iron pot rusted as soon as it cooled off. I remelted and fluxed with baking soda. No Thanks.

Bye
Jack


I have a quantity of rosin core solder. Would this give a different result?
John

It might be OK. Marshall and others use pine pitch for a flux. Rosin is a form of pitch. Rosin core solder coats copper joints so they don't corrode.

Bye
Jack

I've contacted Bill Ferguson, the Antimony Man whom I normally buy my Tin from. Bill is to going to check with a solder manufacturer for details about toxicity and other problems associated with using any solder other than solid core. I will post what I learn.
You can be sure I"m not going to use it in my lead pot. I may have to melt it down outdoors and remove the flux if it can be done or give it to someone for its proper use.

Thanks to all who replied, it saved me from a wreck.

You might also try posting your question on
http://www.aimoo.com/forum/freeboard.cfm?id=514616&NoCaches=Yes
These guys are serious about casting lead "boolits".

Here is the reply I received from Bill Ferguson, The Antimony Man. Bill was kind enough to check with a solder Expert about using acid core solder in bullet casting.

"Acid in the acid core may be a weak sulphuric or some similar acting acid that could cause problems down the line.
He should not us it in his casting pot (contamination).
He should, if it is important enough to him, render it in some other pot OUTSIDE in the breeze as the fumes maybe toxic.
Solder expert's final comment was "Is it really worth the chance".

If anyone needs tin, antimony or prepared alloy Bill has been an excellent source of product and information.

44 WCF

50/50 solder...pure lead and pure tin. I have never had a problem using it. It costs about the same as buying the 2 items separately with tin at $6/lb

I would also recommend avoiding flux-core solder. The electronics industry has recommended avoiding breathing the fumes from flux-core for as long as I've been an electronikker. This is mostly because it uses zinc oxide and the fumes are similar to the toxic fumes from welding galvanized steel. I don't think we want our lead contaminated by zinc, either. I know the manufacturers have been getting away from using zinc oxide flux but, dollars to doughnut holes, the stuff you buy from the local hardware store will have zinc oxide in it.

-91

I been using it where found cheap for years. The stuff will clog everything up, melt it outside in a bulk melting pot like most of us use for wheelweights. Get it hot, flux with sawdust or oatmeal/flour/cornmeal to get the goo out. Remaining is good for alloy tin. The problem flux is brown and leaves a residue similar to bullet lube if not removed. It is toxic and should be treated accordingly.

I buy 97% tin/3% copper solder for $6/lb at Plumbing Warehouse. You can also get this same brand for the same price from Harbor Freight.

Jeff

I'm a tag sale addict, to date I've around 15lbs of 50/50 solid, average between ten cents and twenty-five cents a roll unused. Try a few of them sales, I have bought home made boat anchor, old 2lb coffee can with a muffler clamp cast in the pure lead, fella that sold it to me said he had a hard time lifting out of the lake bottom, went on to tell me it was a old sewer pipe he got from his grandfathers barn loft. That one was $2. I have bought a quite of few weighted snagging hooks (now illegal in mich) for little or nothing. Lot of large sinkers. Once in a while I come across a gem like my 39A rusted on the outside, broken rear sight but for $25 I took in off the old gals hands.