Every 20 rounds or so I need to check the hood on my 336 because it tends to slide forward from recoil. What is the best way to secure the hood on the ramp? I thought about a dab of super glue or squeezing the hood together at its base might do the trick.

What is the best method for those of you that have had this problem?

Old Wolf,

Is your rifle new? If so it should have good sharp "teeth" to hold on to the front sight. Otherwise you might try squeezing it together, as you said, to increase the tension on the front sight.

Question: Are the teeth the same on both sides of the gripping surface? It seems that they may be different. If somehow the hood is on backward the gripping surface would be mismatched and allow slippage.

SS

Hi Sidespin,
This rifle was made in 1967 and it has no teeth on the hood. I guess the solution was to add teeth on the later models? :D

No wonder it slips... I don't know when the "teeth" were placed on the hood but I'll bet we now know why...

A lttle squeeze might do the trick, otherwise, I dunno, super
glue may just do the trick.
:confused:
SS

I got a new 336C for Christmas and had the same problem with it. The hood kept sliding off. It finally came off and was lost when hunting in heavy brush. It must have caught the hood on some limbs and pulled it off. I have a scope on it now and haven’t worried about it. Will get another one later.
I don't remember any teeth on it?

Nnightfisher

Every 20 rounds or so I need to check the hood on my 336 because it tends to slide forward from recoil. What is the best way to secure the hood on the ramp? I thought about a dab of super glue or squeezing the hood together at its base might do the trick.

What is the best method for those of you that have had this problem?
Try putting a few drops of clear nail polish on the groove that the hood slides on. this should do it.

IF guns in the used gun racks are representative, either hoods DEFY being taken off, or fall off on their own...doesn't seem to be a middle ground.

Best are the ones that use "blind" slots (slot not open at either end), sping tension and tabs on the sight hood keep it in place. Are some with "dead end" slots, that are only open in one direction...of course, that only solves the problem 1/2 of the time.

The ones with a slot open at both ends seem to forever want to slide...either recoil takes them off to the font, or contact with brush takes them off to the rear.

Increase spring tension by slightly bending the legs of the hood together...file little "teeth" to them...glue them. IF the slot it fits in is viaible ahead and behind the sight hood, can pin-punch the slot to keep it in place....but of course then it will retailiate by developing an incurable rattle. On one, just ended up soldering the hood to the sight.

Would be very pleased if (1) the hood was non-removable or (2) the hood removed by way of a screw. Some did have the hood mount with a screw...believe it was Mossberg's hooded front.

I usually take them off. The bead works better when the light can get to it. Besides it just looks better.

Simple way to fix this: mix up JB Weld on a scrap piece of cardboard with a wooden match stick or tooth pick. Carefully place a small dab into the channel on each side. Slide your hood into place. This epoxy reaches full cure at room temperature in about 24 hours.
TR

But then you cannot remove the hood to remove the screws! :o

I have a 1966 Marlin 336RC that I bought new and the hood has never moved during firing, yet is relatively easy to remove when I want to take it off.

I would suggest you squeeze it together rather than put any kind of adhesive on it. I have to use both thumbs to remove mine. One thumb is too hard. And when I'm reday to put it back on, I don't have to try to open it up to get it started. It will enter the grooves by itself once I push on it. Maybe that will give you a reference to know when you have got it tight enough.

I'm with Paladin, I usually take them off and replace the front sight with a fire sight.

I'll third with paladin and big medicine, take the darn thing off. Your sight picture will be better, and front sight easier to see. Just read Marshall's article on the 444, part I, page 5, when he misses an elk( :rolleyes: sorry Marshall) due to the front hood. Now THAT should be enough to convince you. Just something to think about on the other side of things :D .
Jeff

Some of you guys are clue-less. JB Weld is a two part epoxy and does not weld metal together. Welding involves melting metal and adding filler rod. This epoxy is a type of glue but the hood can be removed with a sharp blow from a mallet. But why should the hood be removed? Why should the front sight be removed? Like I said, some of you guys are clue-less.
TR

TR,
Clue less as to what? Like I said, I ditch the hood and replace the front sight with a Fire Sight, usually green. You can see it a lot better in low light and the point is to get light to it, not shade it.

Old Wolf,
The guy wanted to know how to fix his hood from sliding. He didn't say a thing about upgrading to a different sight. When you take a flat tire to be fixed do you want to be sold the latest and greatest tire or do you want your flat fixed?

The hood protects the sight as well as providing shade. All the real cowboys I know have hooded front sights for this reason.
TR

TR,
It was Old Wolf that asked the question. And If you read his post he asked how others deal with the problem. All I did was answer the mans question. I'm not trying to sell anybody anything. Choosing to JB weld the hood was your answer to the mans question. Maby you should go back and read the post. I dont see anything about any one making coments about "welding" the hood on. I dont think anybody was looking to turn this into a urinating contest. Sorry if you took it that way.

I'll cast my vote with Big Medicine, Cast-N-Blast and Paladin on the use of hoods. I use them to protect the front sight while in transit or storage. I have an 81 DL and a Golden 39A in .22, An 1894C in .38/357 a 336 SC .35 Rem and an 1895SS in 45/70 all have hoods and firesight fronts. The hood gets taken off as soon as I am in shooting territory.

What if they get lost? Frankly they are a pain in the a$$ as the subject of this thread indicates.

Well, they must be somewhat useful. Most military rifles use hoods of some sort to protect the front blade.

Old Wolf,
True many of the older rifles came with sight hoods, but often it was the first thing that was ditched. My dad told me that he, and most of the guys in his out fit that had the 03A3 ditched the hood, because in the thick jungle it was dark and hard to see the front sight. Often times they were trying shoot into the slot in a pill box or bunker. None of the US rifles since the 03A3 have had sight hoods. They have blades to protect the sight, but no sight hoods, there must be a reason for that. ;)

Good Point! :eek:

Old Wolf,
True many of the older rifles came with sight hoods, but often it was the first thing that was ditched. My dad told me that he, and most of the guys in his out fit that had the 03A3 ditched the hood, because in the thick jungle it was dark and hard to see the front sight. Often times they were trying shoot into the slot in a pill box or bunker. None of the US rifles since the 03A3 have had sight hoods. They have blades to protect the sight, but no sight hoods, there must be a reason for that. ;)

Indeed, I have lately noticed that some of the hoods on newer rifles are inletted on the top to allow more light in.

I have thought about maby trying one of those new style my self. ;)

I just put a BDL front sight w/hood on my ADL Rem700. Interesting thing is that the hood is kind of loose on it too. I may squeeze the hood together to tighten it up or use a small amount of superglue on it.

My Dad's Mauser 98 that he picked up after the war has a very tight hood over its front ramp. It was made so that the hood CAN'T slide.

Funny how this thread is still hanging on...

Get into the center of the slot with a jewelers file and cut a indent in the slot and the sight will stay put one side should do the trick. If you are lacking a jewelers file, take a hack saw blade break it in a vise on a slight angle and then grind the saw kerf flat until it fits in the slot. Do this slowly as not to take the temper for your blade quench in water often. A .010 indent should do it. Take care and have fun. Swany

What I am planning on doing is mixing up a small amount of BLACK epoxy, any brand will do.

Then I am going to take a toothpick and put a small dab in the hood grooves on the muzzle end of the front sight.

Then... when the gun is fired, the hood will move towards the epoxy "stops", and hopefully move no more.

I have thought about maby trying one of those new style my self. ;)
Instead of buying one just use a dremel tool to remove most of the top of the hood I did this for my 444 because I use a fire sight and it works ok. :D