So...how do you gather information? - Page 2

Tang · #16 05-09-2009, 04:53 PM

I dont personally have Quickload on my PC, a friend helps me there. Pointlank is a free program, and it keeps track of your handload information, as well as make digital versions of your best targets just for records. It has Talylor KO calculator, recoil calculator, SD and BC calculators, as well as does trajectory tables and winddrifts.

If you can't find it on the net Nick, send me an email and I'll email it to you. It's a small file.

arkypete · #17 05-09-2009, 05:05 PM

The rifle I shoot the most is an AR10t, so I'm loading lots of Federal cases with 43.5 grains of IMR 4064, Winchester primers, 168 grain BTHPs by Partizan PRVI. This is the same load that worked well with Sierra 168 grain Matchkings, that worked well some 168 grain FMJ, BT from S. Africa.
There's differences in point of impact between the three bullets, they were just about equally accurate.
The most fun I had was working up loads from a 375 Whelen for which there was zero current loading data available, especially since I was working up cast bullet loads. So I used 35 Whelen data with the same jacketed bullet weight as the cast bullet weight I planned on using.
My most recent adventure was working up loading data for a 405 Winchester using a 350 grain cast bullet.
Way back when I first started reloading I was working with a 243 Winchester for deer. A fellow with much more experience then me told me that if I was using 100 or 105 grain bullets to use 39.5 grains of IMR 4350, CCI LR Mag primers and I'd always have an accurate load. He was right, it worked with every 100 to 105 grain bullet I tried, with the 105 grain Speer round nose coming as the most accurate of all loads. used in that rifle.
In my experience there's some loads that for a particular caliber seem to work with any fire arm so chambered. An old bullseye shooter watched me go thru the drill of load testing for a Colt Gold Cup. We chatted a while he asked what my load was and suggested that I use 4.5 grains of Bullseye or Winchester 231 with a 180 to 210 grain and I would save time and money. He was right!

Jim

unclenick · #18 05-10-2009, 08:49 PM

Tang,

Found it. Thanks.

QuickLOAD also has a recoil calculator. It breaks the recoil into that caused by the bullet and that due to rocket effect after the exiting bullet uncorks the muzzle to let the high pressure gases shoot out. I'll be interested to see how the two compare?

243dave · #19 05-10-2009, 09:46 PM

Well, I work up a load to max velocity for my big game rounds and others I work up loads for accuracy, my target and varmint rounds. I don't have a chrony so I stop when hodgdons manuel says too or when there are pressure signs. I check the accuracy of both big game and varmint/target rounds on targets. Even my big game rounds must give me confidence for a difficult shot. Next I test out the big game bullets on dry phonebooks to see how well new bullets compare to some tried and true bullets. I know----phonebooks are not the same as flesh but it does give me a idea of its construction. This is also important to me because I use a lot of smallbores on deer and also jacketed pistol bullets pushed from a rifle, So I feel I need to have a good idea of bullet performance like this instead of on live animals. Plus its fun to compare bullets. I guess I gather my info in crude manners but it has always killed well. Dave

Nalgi · #20 11-04-2009, 06:46 AM

With California's lead ban we have had to work up new loads for all our rifles! We like to shoot and shoot alot. Our method is to start with the recommended starting loads and work up in 1/2 grain increments until you bracket best shooting loads. Then use .1 grain increments within the bracket + - until you find what load your rifle likes.

FYI- our experience with non lead bullets has been (without going into all the physics) that the heavier the bullet (within that caliber) the better they shoot. (IE: a 180 gr. .30 bullet shoots better than a 150 gr. bullet) Problem is in the smaller calibers the heavier bullets need a higher twist rate.

I MISS MY 50 Gr. V-Max

Crpntr33 · #21 11-06-2009, 07:23 PM

1. buy a book, Lymans etc or what ever product line you feel close to.
2.Read posts pertaining to your desired caliber.
3. if you have experience loading your own, write it all down before you load anything different from what your used to shooting.
4. this is the important part. dont take my word for it unless you know enough about it in the first place.

If it hits outside the center size of a quarter at 300 yards you missed or, its the wrong load period....

BKeith · #22 11-07-2009, 03:58 AM

Let's see, Musella GA, the home of Dickey Farms, good peaches.

I DO NOT depend on velocity as a determining factor for max loads. There are way too many things going on long before that bullet leaves the barrel. A powder that a little too fast for the weight bullet, bullet seating depth, a magnum primer used instead of standard on heavy load, a barrel that's a couple of microns smaller, too little powder or a powder that leaves too much case volume.

Learn to read the primers, they will give you a wealth of info, next use a good micrometer. Mic the base before it goes in the rifle and again after it has been fired, I use a Starrett mic and Starrett dial caliper, that's about a cheap as I want to go when I have my head next to a possilbe grenade.

I use the Chronograph to check for velocity fluctuations and to see what powders give the best velocity without over pressuring the case. I'm not a target shooter so I balance my loads between the ones that give the most velocity and still have good accuracy. I don't want the most accurate load if I'm having to give up a lot of velocity to get it, but at the same time, I don't want the fastest load if they make the target look like I shot a load of buckshot at it. I also don't depend on 100 yard groupings. I build all loads at 200 yards and then check them out at least 400. I guess I should mention I also use an 8x32x44 scope for building loads, it's kinda hard to hold center on the standard 3x9.

I find the powder and primer combonation that shoots best for the bullet and then I fine tune that powder charge. I always use match grade and preped brass when building loads, but not quite so pickey when actually shooting that load hunting. Too many times you leave the brass on the ground and I spend too much time and work finding a couple of dozen matched pieces of brass for load building to use them for hunting.